day 1 • Strasbourg

Arrival at Hôtel Léonor and welcome cocktail

We will all meet at our hotel, where each of you will have arrived in the afternoon / early evening by their own means, for an informal meet-and-greet apéritif around 5pm, before our first dinner in Strasbourg.

Hôtel Léonor is a fairly new addition to the top tier of Strasbourg hotels. The location could not be better—the Christmas Market is just a 2 minute walk away—as the hotel sits in the very heart of the Old Town. The building is a stunning combination of grand façades from the early 18^th century with two modern wings where contemporary architecture and interior design offer a unexpected contrast. A beautiful paved courtyard completes the layout of the place. The main building was originally the palatial residence of the Governor of Strasbourg. Erected shortly after Alsace had become part of the Kingdom of France, the Governor’s residence was definitely meant to demonstrate the magnificence of the kingdom and the skills of the royal architects. The hotel bar is beautiful and cosy, and the breakfast buffet is outstanding.

Dinner at ‘Chez Yvonne’

We will then proceed to ‘Chez Yvonne’ for an epic Choucroute. Their five-meat version is just short of Gargantuan. An iconic place if there ever was one, Chez Yvonne has been famous for decades. It has seen them all—heads of state, from Président Jacques Chirac (who was especially partial to Yvonne’s famous head cheese) , to Chancellor Helmut Kohl, to Boris Yeltsin, to show business celebrities, business leaders and scores of enthusiastic gourmets, be they locals or hailing from as far as Korea or Brazil.

The interior design epitomizes that one-of-a-kind cross between tavern, bistrot and gastro-pub called a ‘Wynstub’ (which translates into something like ‘Cosy Wine Room’). To fit the bill, such a place has to be small and intimate, not too brightly lit, located in a historic building and fur­nished in a slightly rustic, authentic style. Chez Yvonne ticks all the boxes, together with the most important: very good, traditional food and an outstanding selection of Alsatian wines!

“A top-notch hotel & a Choucroute celebrities are raving about”

day 2 • Strasbourg

MORNING STROLL THROUGH THE ‘PETITE FRANCE’

The name is rather misleading, since the whole area was built at a time when Strasbourg was a free city of the Holy German-Roman Empire… In any case, this typical area of the Old Town is a picture-perfect mix of stately, half-timbered houses with pointy gables, narrow cobblestone streets and beautiful vistas across the river and the canals. We will explore the Petite France at a leisurely pace, and then stroll along the river back to the cathedral.
 

THE STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL

Built entirely from local pink sandstone, the Strasbourg Cathedral is an unfor­gettable sight and a breathtaking architectural and engineering achievement—celebrated by both Victor Hugo and Johann-Wolfgang von Goethe (a telling indication of the complex mix of French and German influences that has, for centuries, shaped almost everything in Alsace).

The construction began in 1220. It was then continued by the building’s main architect, Erwin von Steinbach. When the spire was finally completed, in 1439, the cathedral became the highest building in the world.

“All what the ‘Capitale de Noël’ is famous for”

One of the most striking features is the asymmetrical, single tower: the builders calculated that the struc­ture, which, initially, rested on thousands of wooden piles, could not bear the weight of a second tower.

We will marvel at hundreds of statues and ornaments in purest gothic style and explore this majestic building extensively, including an introduction to many quirky architectural details.

LUNCH AT ‘CHÈRE AMIE’ IN THE NEUSTADT

A 10 minute walk from the cathedral, this brasserie is traditional and contemporary at the same time. Located in the grand building that was once the central Post Office (Philippe still remembers going there as a boy to spend his pocket money on new releases for his stamp collection), Chère Amie has managed to blend modern elements with historic 19^th architecture. The place is already a favorite with the trendy local crowd, which comes for its refreshing take on traditional brasserie fare and for a good choice of seafood.

SAINT-PIERRE LE JEUNE CHURCH

Located just across the hotel, Saint-Pierre le Jeune has gorgeous frescoes from the 14^th century, a cloister that is a heaven of peace and silence in the very heart of the city, a splendid organ and a nave that was partitioned in two after the Reformation. This original solution allowed Lutherans and Catholics to attend services in their respective, designated areas within one and the same church!

STOPOVER AT PÂTISSERIE CHRISTIAN

Christian’s pastry shop and ‘salon de thé’ belongs to the most famous in France. A long-time Strasbourg feature, it is reputed for the exceptional crafts­manship of Christian’s creations, his refined combinations of ingredients, and the not-to-be-missed frescoed façade. We will have a 5 o’clock tea (or coffee, obviously) with pastries there, before heading to the season’s most famous and hence ‘de rigueur’ attraction.

THE CHRISTMAS MARKET ‘CHRISTKINDELSMÄRIK’

We will arrive shortly after dark, as the unique atmosphere of the market is much less palpable during daytime.
 
Since 1570, the Strasbourg Christmas Market has taken place annually on what is now Place Broglie ( pronounced “broil”). This makes it by far the oldest in France. In recent years, its success has turned it into a sprawling affair engulfing a sizable part of the historic town center. There is even a fairly new ‘off’ market that promotes sustainability and eco-responsible enjoyment…
 
But the spirit of the original event, initiated by medieval merchants almost five centuries ago, endures to this day. While crêpes, waffles, roasted chest­nuts, gingerbread and mulled wine are in no short supply, the unique ambience and the traditional crafts are what sets the Strasbourg market apart – ranging from the terracotta ‘santons’ of Provence to gorgeous tree ornaments and typical wood carvings. We will spend a couple of hours there, exploring the main market and its ‘satellite’ locations.
 

EARLY DINNER:  ‘FLAMMEKUECHE’ on the menu

On the second day in Europe, the jet lag tends to hit hard. Accordingly, we will head  early to one of the places that specializes in what Olga calls ‘Alsatian pizza’. Meaning literally ‘flame cake’, the Flammekueche shares indeed the thin crust and the wood-fired oven with its very distant Italian cousin. But the toppings—on a base of thinly spread sour cream, bacon and seasoned cottage cheese—could not be more different.

Together with a glass of fruity Sylvaner, this is the specialty that any Alsatian expat will always miss. La Grange du Gloeckelsberg in the small village of Blaesheim is a place where real Stras­bour­geois, and people from Blaesheim itself, have kept going for many years.

day 3 • Route des vins

The Alsatian Wine Route

The world-famous ‘Route du Vin’ is stretching like a string of pearls over almost 100 miles, from Wissembourg on the border to Germany all the way to Thann — a place much closer to Switzerland than to Strasbourg. Along the way, a long list of improbably pretty villages and hundreds of vintners would keep a very thorough traveler and wine lover busy for weeks.

WINE TASTING IN A CELLAR FROM THE 16^TH CENTURY

In Mittelbergheim, we will sample extensively the wines of Domaine Albert Seltz. Seltz was already one of Philippe’s grandfather Lucien preferred ports of call when he wanted to restock his cellar. The Seltz family grows all seven tradi­tional grapes of Alsace — Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewurtz­traminer, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois.

The Domaine includes a Sylvaner Grand Cru —Zotzenberg — for which Albert Seltz, a true champion of the sometimes underrated Sylvaner grape, fought a protracted, and ultimately successful, battle on European level. The extensive visit of the cellars and tasting will be conducted in English by Albert Seltz, who prides himself on his ‘Alsatian-American’ culture: his mother was born in Newport Beach, California (more about this on location).

“Outstanding white varietals, enchanting villages & a magical Chritstmas Market”

A STROLL THROUGH BARR

Nearby Barr is a small town that has existed since at least the 8^th centur­y. It became prosperous a long time ago by trading wines. Although its self-declared status as ‘Capital of Alsatian Wines’ is a debatable claim, the town is defi­ni­tely remarkable for its central square, with a magnificent, slightly oversized Town Hall in Renaissance style. The building was destroyed several times “by the Devil” and four more precisely documented times by fire (the last time in 1944, in the final months of WW2). A proof of Alsatian resilience, it is as beautiful today as it ever was.
 

lunch in sÉlestat

The ‘Bon Pichet’ is the ideal place to have (among other specialties) the ‘Quenelles de brochet’ (pike dumplings is a close approximation) or their signature ‘Onion stuffed with escargots’ (sounds weird, tastes delicious). The chef specializes in refined, inventive takes on local recipes. We will stroll through the whimsical Old Town with its medieval towers and small squares. This is the place where the local humanist Beatus Rhenanus, a close friend of Erasmus, spent most of his life.

Kaysersberg’s magical ‘country-style’ christmas market

This incredibly beautiful small town is an enchantment at any time of the year, with its elegant and sophisticated mansions built by prosperous vintners, farmers and merchants back in the Renaissance and the 17^th century. The location along a gushing creek further adds to the charm of the old streets and half-timbered houses. Much smaller than in Strasbourg, the Christmas Market is intimate and authentic. In the evening, the lights, the old façades and the views of the surrounding vineyards and the old castle perched atop a nearby hill conjure up a unique, mesmerizing atmosphere.

Dinner in Illhaeusern

At Restaurant À la Truite, we will enjoy their famous, award-winning ‘Médaille d’Or’ matelote. This is a dish Philippe was not particularly fond of as a kid — his family was invited more than once by  matelote-loving grandparents. But it is actually delicious. Although completely different in taste and color, matelote is based on the same principle as bouillabaisse: a medley of fish, slow-cooked in a rich broth. Matelote, though, is based on sweetwater fish (originally from the Ill and the nearby Rhine River). A shot of good Riesling is a must to enhance the creamy broth.


day 4 • escapade to Freiburg

We will start our day with a transfer for the Hôtel Léonor to our new launching pad, the Ritter in Durbach, on the other side of the Rhine. Both charming and luxurious, the hotel is ideally located for our next few days. One of several highlights is the indoor swimming pool, which is complemented by a sophisticated spa and wellness area. Another are the many period touches in a place that has a long tradition of hospitality at the highest level.

We will then proceed to the day’s main destination—the beautiful city of Freiburg.

A place that has it all

Half the size of Strasbourg, but elegant, polished and wonder­fully located at the foot of the Black Forest, vibrant Freiburg has outstanding shops and eateries, beautiful monuments, a character all its own and one of the largest and best universities in Germany. Martin Heidegger, the world-famous philosopher, was a professor at Freiburg University. As for the Medical School, founded in 1457, it has a sterling reputation. Philippe spent 24 years in Freiburg. For good reasons: it is a highly enjoyable, ideally located city.

an extraordinary farmers’ market

Quite simply, it is the most authentic and beautiful we know. The market has taken place daily since the Middle Ages, come rain or come shine, around the stunningly harmonious Münster (cathedral). Like its Strasbourg counterpart, the Freiburger Münster is made entirely from local pink sandstone.

“The Upper Rhine Valley at its best—and all of it in one place”

The market has locally grown, ultra-fresh vege­tables, heirloom fruit (Boskoop apples and Ulmer Polizeiapfel are favorites of ours), excellent cheeses, a dazzling variety of the best sausages under the sun, an abundance of flowers in summer, cut or potted—not to forget real Black Forest ham (spoiler: it ismoked on fir needles and has nothing in common with the American variant). This is as good as it gets.

Then, after a five minute walk, we will have a glass of mulled wine (the Germans, somehow, make the best, don’t ask why) at the pretty Christmas market. As an alternative and for who­ever feels in shopping mood, Freiburg is the place. I will provide a list of the best shops, all within walking distance — be it for Kirsch­wasser or high-end designer clothing.

the iconic Hausbrauerei Feierling

Our lunch spot is an institution here, frequented by students and their grandparents alike. The Feierling is wildly popular for its atmosphere, food and craft beers. Out of the two big copper vats that sit in the middle of the restaurant come some of the best beers in the region, from unfiltered Hefeweizen to classic Pils. Not to be missed are Feierling’s bratwurst with sourdough bread, Wurstsalat mit Brägele, the latter being the deli­cious local take on roasted potatoes, or its vegetarian alterna­tive, Bibeleskäs mit Brägele.

StauFEN: IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE DEVIL, WITH A HAPPY START

After lunch in Freiburg, and an extended walk through the Old Town, we will enjoy our dessert at a legendary, nearby place: Café Decker in Staufen. Their choice of cakes and pastries feels almost overwhelming, and they are all to die for. The Black Forest Gâteau or ‘Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte’ is worth a special mention. A genuine local specialty, it can hardly be bested anywhere.

DINNER AT GASTHAUS STORCHEN, BAD KROZINGEN

The small town of Bad Krozingen became a sought-after spa destination more or less by error: a bit over 100 years ago, geologists drilling for oil ended empty-handed, but discovered hot mineral springs instead. These used to attract patients with rheumatic diseases (Philippe’s own grandmother among them).

Today, the place is just as well know for its pleasant parks and attractive location in the middle of the famous Markgräfler Land vineyards. At the Storchen, we will enjoy highly inventive variations around the cuisine of Southern Germany. The lovingly restored and furnished ‘Gasthaus’, built in 1764, rounds up the picture. Two generations of the Helfesrieder family are joining forces here. Their efforts have won them wide-ranging recognition, including a *Michelin Star and a 17 out of 20 rating by Gault-Millau.

day 5 • A taste of switzerland

A RICH PAST AND A RICH PRESENT

Basel is straddling the Rhine River just across the border—the closest city in Alsace, Saint-Louis, is more a suburb of Basel than a standalone place. Basel has a rich past, and even richer citizens: several of the world’s largest phar­ma­ceutical companies are headquartered in Basel. This being Switzerland, Basel combines an immaculate Old Town, stunning museums, high-end shops of all kinds and, to quote Voltaire, the feeling that, at least at first sight, “Everything is for the best in the best possible world”. We will explore the city center on foot (it is beautiful, yet conveniently small) and have a cheese fondue lunch (what else!) at Weinbau Leuengrund’s Wystübli in Pratteln, just outside Basel. The ‘Weinbau’, located on the hill that overlook the Rhine river, combines wine and milk production in a rather original and very Swiss way.
 

EXCEPTIONAL MUSEUMS

In the afternoon, we will go to one of Basel’s exceptional museums. The actual choice can be made on location, according to the predo­minant mood in the group. We have three favorites.

The Tinguely Museum is our first choice (and so far our guests’ as well). It has the world’s largest collection of the artist’s signature ‘kinetic sculptures’. Tinguely, an eccentric Swiss if there ever was one, shared with Nikki de Saint-Phalle—his partner in crime and romance—a firm belief in intellectual anarchy, ideas equally wacky and groundbreaking, and a rare form of poetic, yet wildly irreverent humor.

“Let’s enjoy exceptional museums and some highly enjoyable samples of the Swiss way of life”

day 6 • Northern Alsace

To the north of Strasbourg, the tourists are far fewer and the atmosphere more laid back. But interesting, beautiful places are plentiful.

UNIQUELY ALSATIAN, SOUGHT AFTER WORLDWIDE: SOUFFLENHEIM POTTERY

Our first stop will be Soufflenheim. The unique, traditional Soufflenheim pottery, still made entirely by hand, is the prerequisite for some of the most iconic Alsatian dishes and pastries. No real Choucroute or Baeckeoffe that has not simmered for hours in a glazed clay pot, a ‘schiessel’, from Soufflenheim, just as the original Kougelhopf has to be baked in the typical, ribbed Soufflenheim mold. The pots are absolutely oven-safe, they last forever (Philippe still uses his grandma’s) and they are colorfully decorated with traditional, (or less traditional) patterns.

The local clay is the only acceptable raw material. It is so specific that, at the time when German ‘Kaisers’ ruled Alsace, it used to be protected by an imperial warrant.

At Ernewein-Haas, we will visit the potters’ workshop and the well-stocked showroom (no obligation to buy any­thing, but if you do, have it wrapped very well — the only weakness of Soufflenheim pottery is its sensitivity to shocks). We were told once by the owner—a colorful horse lover who used to practice dressage for a living at the famous French ‘Cadre Noir’—that they send Soufflenheim pottery on a regular basis to Japan, the US and Australia!

“Alsace at its most authentic, off the beaten track, and a very upscale Christmas Market”

Culinary delights at Le Jardin

Our ‘Menu du jour’ at Le Jardin, in nearby Haguenau, is a well-kept secret among Alsatian gourmets. Inventive junior chef Romain Meyer and his father Damien have made the restaurant into a family affair, together with sommelier Justine Engelhardt, Romain’s girlfriend. Their light, non-traditional creations are sure to delight you. As for Romain, he has remained exceptionally modest. Told by one of our guests that he deserves a Michelin Star, he simply said “Thank you for the compliment, but it would be too much stress”!

The venue combines elegant, contemporary design with a sumptuous cassette ceiling dating back to the Renaissance.

WINE TASTING IN MARLENHEIM

In one of the northernmost villages on the Wine Route, we will sample the wines from Marlenheim, and explore the many variations around the classic Alsatian grapes, including ‘Vendanges Tardives’ (when grapes stay on the vine until well after the first frost), ‘Grains nobles’ (when berries are harvested by hand after the so-called ‘noble rot’ has set in — obviously not an option for everybody…) and Vieilles Vignes (in that case, grapes are harvested by hand from old vines).

THE CHRISTMAS MARKET IN BADEN-BADEn

In Baden-Baden, a world-famous spa resort that has attracted a top-notch clientèle for almost two centuries, the Christmas Market is a reflection of the the city itself: sophisticated and exceptionally beautiful. Our detour through Baden-Baden will also give us ample opportunity to enjoy the upscale atmosphere and beautiful buildings of this unique place.

COUSCOUS DINNER

Strange as it might seem at first sight, immigrants from North Africa (many of whom have now been French for a while) are an intrinsic part of France’s social fabric. So are the many ‘Pieds Noirs’—the former French colonists who had lived in North Africa for generations, only to be urgently relocated to France (more than a few to Strasbourg) when the colonial period ended in turmoil.

That’s why a genuine couscous is not to be missed when in France, just like an enchilada with chili Christmas style in New Mexico! Leaving the tourist crowds behind, we will go to Le Jasmin, an excellent and authentic Tunisian place well outside the city center, for a couscous with a Gris de Boulaouane, the crisp, refreshing Moroccan Rosé of choice.

day 7 • History & Haute Cuisine

AN EXTRAVAGANT CASTLE:

HAUT-KOENIGSBOurg

On this last day, we will drive high up in the Vosges mountains to visit the Castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg. The largest medieval castle in France was little more than a ruin by the late 19^th century. This is when local dignitaries decided they would have it rebuilt stone by stone to its original splendor and gift it to the German Kaiser (courtesy of Napoléon III, Alsace had again become part of the German Empire in 1870).

What sounded (and still sounds) like a hare­brained idea produced a medieval recreation rivaled only by Carcassonne. Based on old engravings and drawings, the huge castle was not only pain­stakingly reconstructed, but furnished and decorated down to the tiniest details. While some of said details reflect a rather overenthusiastic take on interior design in the 14^th century, the overall result is impressive and highly enjoyable.

OPTION 1: COLMAR—TO BE ENJOYED AT YOUR OWN PACE

Colmar is the town in Alsace that has the best preserved historic city center. Of hundreds of buildings dating back at least to the Renaissance, many are lavishly ornamented (Colmar was a prosperous and well connected trading hub). They line the streets and several narrow canals, for which the ‘Petite Venise’ (Little Venice) district is famous.

“After exploring the past, let’s end the day with an unforgettable gourmet feast”

To give every­body the freedom to explore at their own pace, shop for souvenirs (or anything else) or just enjoy the cityscape, there will be no preset program at lunchtime and for the afternoon. A map of the city with its main attractions and shopping areas will be provided. A good option for a quick lunch ‘sur le pouce’ (on the go) is the Marché Couvert (covered food market), with its dazzling assort­ment of fresh foods, but there is no lack of alternatives to suit individual preferences.

OPTION 2: A SHORTER STROLL THROUGH COLMAR + SOME SHOPPING FOR 1^ST CLASS COOKWARE AT THE STAUB FACTORY OUTLET 

Passionate cooks who like beautiful cookware will know the brand: after Williams Sonoma introduced the Staub brand to the US, quite a few high-end retailers in the US started offering the Staub line of Dutch ovens, pots, pans and related utensils. They are the Rolls-Royce among cookware and bakeware—and priced accordingly in regular shops. As things go, the Staub factory and headquarters happen to be located in Turckheim, just outside Colmar.

Apart from attractively priced Staub products, the Staub outlet also carries a selection from the other top-notch brands of the Zwilling Group, Staub’s mother company. You will find cutlery from Zwilling, Henckels and the Japanese brand Myiabi as well as pots and skillets from Demeyere and Ballarini. Turckheim being just 5 miles away from the center of Colmar, you will still have time, afterwards, for a leisurely afternoon stroll.

FAREWELL DINNER AT JY’S — A **MICHELIN STAR GRAND FINALE

Our farewell dinner is sure to be one of the highlights of the whole trip. We will spend this last evening at JY’s, Colmar’s **Michelin Star restaurant, for a 6-course dinner including wine pairings. Olga and Philippe consider it to be the best and most interesting restaurant in Alsace. A recent review described chef Jean-Yves Schillinger as a ‘National Treasure’. This sounds a bit solemn and dithyrambic to whoever know[[[[s him…

Suffice to say that our last meal at JY’s ranges among the best we have ever had, including at a substantial number at *** Michelin places. The cuisine is bold and creative, exquisitely plated, and the play with ingredients, textures and flavors is master­ful from the first to the last course.

Jean-Yves Schillinger, who had a sister restaurant in NYC for some time, has opinions all his own about his Ame­rican colleagues. At the end of our last visit, his highly entertaining, if somewhat heated discussion with Olga regarding a few well-known L.A. chefs made this abundantly clear. Should he be in and available on that night, we can promise some interesting exchan­ges with our group.

day 8 • Au revoir,  Auf Wiedersehen

THANK YOU TO ALL AND SAFE TRAVEL BACK HOME 

After an early start and farewell, the participants will either extend their trip to travel on their own to further destinations, or go back to their starting point—the Strasbourg railway station, bus shuttle station or one of the nearby airports.

For the ones who have some more time at hand, we will offer a final wine tasting at Schwarzwaldweingut Andreas Männle, a renowned winery in Durbach.